2022 Cross America Tour
Travel Dates: June 29, 2022 ~ September 5, 2022
Document Last Modified: July 16, 2024
Map
Introduction
After a successful train trip around America in the summer of 2021, I couldn't wait to plan another adventure. A perfect opportunity came when I had to attend a meeting in Park City, Utah. Instead of taking an airplane like everyone else, I decided to take the train. My journey started and concluded in New York City, spanning 68 days.
Cardinal 51 (New York, NY to Indianapolis, IN)
Most trains from the East Coast to the West Coast require a connection in Chicago, IL, so my first step was to get there. Though the Lake Shore Limited 49 would have been faster, I opted for the longer Cardinal 51, which took nearly 9 hours longer. I was not in a hurry and I would love to make a brief visit in Indianapolis, IN before reaching Chicago.
The Cardinal train was scheduled to leave very early in the morning at 6:45AM. I had to get to the station very early. The sleepy class ticket that I booked came with access to the Amtrak Metropolitan Lounge and had some free breakfast before boarding the train.
I originally booked a Roomette about 5 months before my trip. Surprisingly my room was upgraded to a bedroom about 3 weeks before my trip. Traveling in a bedroom was a luxury I hadn't anticipated, as tickets can exceed $1,000. The bedroom was more spacious than the Roomettes, featuring an en suite shower and toilet.
Train travel offers a unique experience compared to car or plane travel. I could focus on enjoying the beautiful views without having to drive.
On the Cardinal train, a significant portion of the journey through West Virginia was in the forest, with little to no mobile signal.
The sleeping accommodation also included complimentary meals. You could choose to either eat in your room or dine in the dining car. I opted to have my dinner delivered to my room. Here is my meal of Slow Braised Beef Short Ribs, which also came with non-alcoholic drinks and dessert.
It got dark when we reached Charleston, West Virginia. At night, the car attendant helped convert the chairs into a bed, with another bed available in the upper level if needed. The sleeper cars were equipped with pillows and blankets, and despite it being summer, the train could get quite cold at night.
I was actually hoping the train would be late so I wouldn't have to arrive before dawn, but unfortunately, we arrived on time. I had my breakfast (Railroad French Toast and coffee) before getting off the train.
Our train arrived at around 5:25 in the morning, and it was still a bit dark outside. Since it was my first time in Indianapolis and the station entrance is under a building structure, I wasn't sure if it was safe to walk around that early. So, I stayed in the station until 7 AM before venturing out.
Cardinal 51 (Indianapolis, IN to Chicago, IL)
After staying in Indianapolis for five nights, it was time to head to my next destination, Chicago. I hoped the train would be late so I wouldn't have to go to the station while it was still dark. However, the train app showed it was on schedule. Since there was only one train to Chicago from Indianapolis, I had no choice but to catch the 6 AM train. Walking to the station so early was a bit scary as there weren't many people around. The train however departed about 50 minutes late after boarding.
The train took about five hours to arrive in Chicago. Ironically, a bus ride from Indianapolis to Chicago often takes only about four hours and offers more frequent departure times. Next time, I would probably opt for the bus for this segment.
California Zephyr 5 (Chicago, IL to Lincoln, NE)
The California Zephyr is often hailed as the most beautiful train ride in the US, passing through stunning landscapes, including the Rockies. It is the second longest train route (the longest route with daily operation) in the US after the Texas Eagle. The Zephyr departs from Chicago daily, with its final stop in Emeryville (near San Francisco), California.
After about two and a half hours, we arrived at Galesburg, IL, where the train took a half-hour break, allowing passengers to stretch or take a smoke break.
Just be sure not to wander too far and pay attention to reboarding time.
The first stop of my journey on the California Zephyr route was Lincoln, Nebraska. I chose this location because the station is right in the downtown area. I arrived at 1:12 AM. Despite the late hour, the area near the train station was well-lit, and my hotel, Hyatt Place Lincoln/Downtown-Haymarket, was just steps away from the station.
California Zephyr 5 (Lincoln, NE to Denver, CO)
Lincoln is a beautiful college town. My next stop was Denver, Colorado. The train left in the middle of the night, and I was grateful that my hotel was steps away from the station and the area was well-lit.
There were already quite a people inside the station when I arrived and the station was staffed.
The train departed about one hour late. As I thought I could finally get some sleep, the ride started to getting very bumpy. The car wobbled and tilted noticeably, and I occasionally heard loud noises from the wheels. Other regular Amtrak riders mentioned that this segment was often rough.
California Zephyr 5 (Denver, CO to Salt Lake City, UT)
The segment of the California Zephyr from Denver, CO to Salt Lake City, UT is undoubtedly the most beautiful train ride on any Amtrak route. This portion of the journey travels through the Rocky Mountains and some stunning landscapes.
Our train was originally scheduled to depart at 8:05 AM. The day before the trip, I received a notification from Amtrak that the train would be delayed due to "late operations." Initially, we were told the delay would be about an hour or two. When I arrived at the station, there were already some people waiting. I struck up a conversation with the couple standing behind me; they were heading to Glenwood Springs for vacation, and it was their first time taking Amtrak. Despite the long wait, we eventually began boarding.
After sitting on the train for quite a while, we received the disappointing news: the train would not depart until at least 2 PM. Amtrak offered a full refund to passengers who no longer wished to travel, and many opted to take it. I wished they had informed us earlier so I could have stayed in my hotel instead of wandering the streets with my luggage.
After a delay of more than 6 hours, the California Zephyr finally departed at 2:40 PM. Many passengers opted for refunds, making the train unusually empty. At this point, I just hoped that the sun would not set too early so that I could still enjoy the stunning mountains and canyons along the route.
The view just outside of Denver was breathtaking. The train slowly wound its way through the mountains, steadily gaining elevation. The segment from Denver to Moffat Tunnel involved an elevation gain of about 4000 feet.
After a few hours, we reached the Moffat Tunnel, a 6.2 mile long tunnel, cutting through the Continental Divide. Inside, the train reaches a the highest point of the route, an altitude of 9,270 feet above sea level.
The train continued travel westward.
By the time we arrived at Glenwood Springs Station, it was already 10 PM. The journey took us more than 7 hours (likely due to the "late operations"). Unfortunately, it was difficult to appreciate the beautiful landscapes outside the windows as it was dark. In contrast, driving from Denver to Glenwood Springs would only take about two and a half hours. While the train offers spectacular views, if you're looking to reach Glenwood Springs quickly from Denver, driving is likely the better option.
The train arrived at Grand Junction Station at midnight, significantly delayed from the scheduled 3:57 PM arrival time. However, with the train nearly empty, I had a whole row of seats to myself and was able to sleep comfortably.
When I woke up the next morning around 5:50 AM, we was already at near Spanish Fork, Utah.
Finally, I arrived at the Salt Lake Central Station at around 7:18 AM, about 8 and a half hours later than the originally scheduled arrival time.
Clearly, the train being 8 hours late was not a good experience. However, from my experience, delays are not uncommon for Amtrak's long-distance trains. I try to maintain a positive outlook. Here's my summary of the pros and cons of the delay on the California Zephyr segment from Denver, CO to Salt Lake City, UT:
Pros:
- Since many passengers opted for refunds due to the delay in Denver, the train was really empty;
- I was able to move around and to take photos from both side of the windows;
- Being in the relatively empty last car allowed me to capture great photos from the rear windows;
- I had an entire empty row to myself, allowing me to stretch out and comfortably sleep across the seats.
- We arrived in the morning instead of the middle of the night, eliminating concerns about navigating to my hotel late at night.
Cons:
- It got dark by the time we reached Glenwood Springs Station, so I missed all the landscapes from there to almost Provo, Utah;
- Technically, I wouldn't have needed to sleep on the train if it had arrived on time at the scheduled 11:05 PM. I had already booked a hotel room for that night and ended up losing the money due to the train's delay.
One of the main reasons I traveled to Salt Lake City was to attend a conference in Park City. Afterward, I visited Provo, UT, and Las Vegas, NV. I was surprised to find that there is no active Amtrak train station in Las Vegas, NV. So I took a bus from Provo, UT to Las Vegas, NV.
From Las Vegas, I needed to catch the Southwest Chief train to return home. Despite there being no active Amtrak train station in Las Vegas, Amtrak provides a bus connection from Las Vegas, NV to Kingman, AZ for boarding the Southwest Chief. Since the train arrived in Kingman, AZ at midnight, I had not planned to take it. Instead, I opted for a Greyhound bus from Las Vegas, NV to Flagstaff, AZ, where I visited the famous Lowell Observatory and the Grand Canyon National Park.
Southwest Chief 4 (Flagstaff, AZ to Albuquerque, NM)
The Amtrak Station in Flagstaff is located downtown. However, the departure time was less than ideal, scheduled for 4:20 AM. I considered staying at the station overnight but wasn't sure if it was allowed, so I decided against it. I didn't want to travel too early so I booked a hotel at downtown Flagstaff, even at a high cost. Unfortunately, the train arrived almost four and a half hours late, around 9 AM, making me wish I had chosen a more affordable hotel a bit farther away for about half the price.
After a 6-hour train ride, I arrived at the Albuquerque Amtrak Station. Located within a transportation hub, it also serves local buses, Greyhound, and regional trains.
Southwest Chief 4 (Albuquerque, NM to Kansas City, MO)
The train ride from Albuquerque, NM to Kansas City, MO was the second longest segment of my journey this year.
The Southwest Chief makes a stop at Las Vegas, NM Station. This isn't the famous Sin City Las Vegas that most people know; that's in another state, Nevada. It's quite surprising that Amtrak stops here but not in Las Vegas, NV. If you're heading to the Las Vegas Strip, make sure you don't end up here by mistake.
The Union Station Kansas City is truly one of the most stunning train stations I've visited. Just outside the station, you'll find the south end of the KC Streetcar. Additionally, the station connects to nearby hotels and the Crown Center via elevated pedestrian walkways known as 'The Link'. This allows you to travel to these destinations without stepping outside onto the streets.
Lincoln Service Missouri River Runner 318 (Kansas City, MO to Jefferson City, MO)
From Kansas City, I took a brief detour to visit Jefferson City, the capital of Missouri, via the Lincoln Service Missouri River Runner train.
Lincoln Service Missouri River Runner 318 (Jefferson City, MO to Bloomington-Normal, IL)
After spending two days in Jefferson City, I continued my journey home. Originally planning to take the train all the way to Chicago, I decided to stop at Bloomington-Normal, IL instead, as the train arrived in Chicago at night. Additionally, the hotel in Bloomington-Normal, IL was more affordable compared to those in Chicago.
After the train passed the St. Louis Gateway Transportation Center, you can enjoy a beautiful view of the Gateway Arch as the train crosses the Mississippi River. At this location, the Mississippi River also marks the state line between Missouri and Illinois.
After a 7-hour train ride, I arrived at the Bloomington-Normal Station. Despite its name, the station is located in the downtown area of Normal, Illinois. It is a very vibrant college town, home to the Illinois State University.
Lincoln Service 300 (Bloomington-Normal, IL to Chicago, IL)
The train from Normal, IL to Chicago, IL only took a little more than 2 hours. On that day, all the trains from Normal, IL to Chicago, IL were sold out online. Unsure if there were any tickets left in person, I was relieved to have purchased mine months in advance. This experience underscored the importance of booking tickets early once your travel plans are finalized. I woke up early to ensure I wouldn't miss that train.
My next train to Pittsburgh, PA was scheduled to depart at 6:40 PM, giving me nearly 9 hours to spend in Chicago. I had some luggages with me so it was not convenient to walk around, so I took advantage of the Amtrak Station Lounges. These lounges are available at some of the largest Amtrak stations. You can find them here (https://www.amtrak.com/station-lounges). Depending on the location, they offer complimentary non-alcoholic beverages, snacks, WiFi, luggage storage, restrooms, and sometimes even showers. Typically, access is reserved for sleeper class passengers or those with higher Amtrak Guest Rewards status.
Since I wasn't traveling in sleeper class, I couldn't access the station lounge automatically. Fortunately at the time I travelled, all passengers could purchase a day pass to the lounge at Chicago Union Station for $35 (it is no longer available for all passengers). This allowed me to store my luggage, enjoy some snacks, and explore Chicago before my next train.
Here are the photos I took last year at the station lounge in Chicago Union Station.
Capitol Limited 30 (Chicago, IL to Pittsburgh, PA)
I could have taken the shortest route, the Lake Shore Limited 48 train back to New York City. However, since I had already taken that train before and had never been to Pittsburgh, PA, I decided to take a detour and board the Capitol Limited 30 to visit Pittsburgh instead.
Since the entire journey was uneventful and mostly dark at night, I didn't take any photos.
Pennsylvanian 42 (Pittsburgh, PA to New York, NY)
I had an Amtrak credit card that came with a yearly one-class upgrade coupon. With it, I was able to upgrade my coach ticket to business class.
The entrance to the Amtrak station was somewhat hard to find. I initially thought I could enter from the Grand Hall at The Pennsylvanian entrance, but it turned out not to be the case.
It was my first time traveling in business class on an Amtrak train. The price for business class was about double that of the coach fare. The business class car had significantly fewer people and offered complimentary non-alcoholic beverages. However, for me, the additional benefits did not justify the higher price. Without the one-class upgrade coupon, I probably would not have opted for business class.
The ride home was quite uneventful, and we arrived on time. That concludes my Amtrak trip in 2023.